Dear Ladies,
Soon you will notice the constant plumes of hickory-scented smoke out your window that herald another grilling season, the time of year when we men polish up the barbecues, whip out the tongs and get cooking. Thankfully, some of you have spent the spring embracing this, and looking forward to attending and enjoying every backyard barbecue you can find and perhaps even taking up the tongs yourselves. Others of you are less enthusiastic, already dreading the hot dogs, greasy pork ribs, T-bone steaks, crispy chicken wings and barbecue sauce-stained sun dresses that will soon be in abundance. Dinners out will soon be replaced with the refrain: "But honey, it's a nice evening. Let's barbecue."
Worrying, of course, is fruitless.
At some point—weeks or months out, depending on your tolerance level—you will become so exasperated with our endless grilling and barbecuing that you may want to beat us with our own marinated drumsticks. Please refrain. Not only are drumsticks terrible things to waste, but cooking meat outdoors is something we have to do. It's in our blood. It is a part of our man-DNA.
Our need to grill dates back eons, when our hearty cavemen forbears, known among grilling scholars as homo erectus barbacoas, grew tired of dining on raw meat—what we now call steak tartare—night after endless night. So they retreated into their cave-workshops, discovered fire, strapped on simple tool belts and invented primitive grills which they used to cook saber-toothed cat ribs and Wooly Mammoth thighs.
These early grilling endeavors resulted in delicious dinners for their families (we know this from early cave paintings featuring mothers, fathers and children next to grills, pointing to their bellies and smiling). But there were important side benefits to grilling, too. As they cooked, the men of homo erectus barbocoas learned the art of conversational speech, gathering around their hibachis and discussing the news of the day. Grilling became an important pastime for us, intimately connected with early bonding experiences and our identities as men; nothing less, in fact, than our very survival as a species.
Of course, you say, there have been many advances since those happy cave-dwelling days. Things have changed. We now have 60-inch plasma TV screens, wide-bodied jets and microwavable macaroni and cheese. Thanks to science, we have antibiotics to ward off disease and light beer to minimize our calorie intake. Most of us no longer hunt for our dinners, beyond brief forays to the butcher section of the grocery store.
While we're generally happy about these advances, there is a part of us that has become alienated from our ancestors, that yearns to run wild in the primordial forest, to hunt wild beasts with bamboo spears, to make fire and cook up a bison leg now and again. So profound is this need that even those vegetarians among us—men who have consciously sought to distance themselves from their carnivore instincts—still yearn to grill items like "veggie burgers" and "tofu dogs," items that conspicuously resemble meat.
So, barbecuing, you see, allows us to express this repressed yearning—the instinctual urge that Sigmund Freud so aptly called men's "Q Complex." It links us to a simpler time. Making that connection is healthy. It's good for us.
If only it were so simple. By now, you have probably discovered that the major backyard-appliance manufacturers have recognized this need in men. This is another complicated issue, and we must again ask for your patience and understanding. We men are now manipulated into purchasing larger and ever more dynamic barbecues than the ones we already own. When we make pilgrimages, as we call them, to the big-box home improvement stores, we are confronted with a dizzying array of styles to choose from.
There are sleek, shiny stainless-steel models with half a dozen burners and electronic igniters. Some come equipped with an infrared, rear-mounted rotisserie burner. Others feature 700-square-inches of prime cooking area and can produce temperatures exceeding 500 degrees—500 degrees! Needless to say, choosing a grill is nothing short of overwhelming for us.
It doesn't get any easier when we head to the barbecue sauce aisle in the grocery store, either. How to choose among so many flavors and sauce makers? (Note their names, such as Bull's-Eye, cleverly designed to appeal to us at our basest "hunt-that-animal" level.)
Grilling and barbecuing are, in a way, symbols of our postmodern condition. We men yearn to return to a simpler time, before cooking meat became so impossibly complicated. We have no hope of success, and yet we must try. It is the perfect expression of who we are.
All we ask of you is that you allow us this seemingly frivolous pleasure, at least for the summer months. Look at it this way: At least the men in your lives know how to cook.
Jim Benning is a Southern California-based freelance writer. His work has appeared in National Geographic Adventure, Men's Journal, the Washington Post and the Los Angeles Times. He co-edits the online travel magazine World Hum www.worldhum.com
Monday, July 09, 2007
Saturday, July 07, 2007
Quest for Sicilian Granita
Found this floating around. Sorry, I do not know the original source. If you do, please tell me & I will credit it after verification.
This summer I decided to take on the daunting task of trying to approximate Sicilian granita starting with my favorite flavor, lemon. When I say approximate I do mean just that, I wasn't going to kid myself into thinking that I could get it exactly the way it is in Sicily. The only way you can get true Sicilian granita is by going to the island itself. There are just too many variables involved, starting with the lemons. You can pick a lemon off a tree in Sicily and eat it like an apple. They are much sweeter than any lemons you can get here.
My first thoughts went to trying to achieve the right consistency. You could never serve true granita in the paper cups for people to eat like an ice cream cone that Italian pastry shops in the states serve ices in. Granita is way too wet; it must be served in glass and eaten with a spoon.
I decided that I was going to try two methods. My Mother told me that my Aunt in Sicily makes her own granita, by freezing it and then using a hand blender to crush it up. I was going to try this method, in addition to my own idea, which is using my ice cream machine.
I thought that trying to get the flavor down was going to be harder. I had several formulas I was going to try. First, I went with the most basic method: water, sugar, and lemon juice. Later I would try adding grated lemon zest to the mixture to see if it helped. Finally, I was going to try spooning out all of the pulp from the lemons and puréeing that for the mixture. All along I would be adjusting the sugar until I got as close to the real thing as possible.
I placed 4 cups of water and 1-1/2 cups of sugar in a pot over low heat and stirred until the sugar dissolved. Then I added ¾ cup of fresh squeezed lemon juice and stirred well. Normally, if I am making ice cream I make the custard and chill it in the refrigerator for a few hours before trying to freeze it in the ice cream machine. But, since I didn’t want the granita to freeze too much I figured it was ok to just let it get to room temperature. That was my first mistake.
I was ready to freeze, so I got the machine going and start pouring in the mixture. I poured it all in and my first thought was I filled it too high. That was my second mistake. “No way is this going to freeze,” I thought. Well, I was right. So I had to go into salvage mode. I transferred the mixture to a container, covered it and placed it in the freezer. I figured in the morning I could try my Aunt’s method with the hand blender. Then I could have granita for breakfast, just like in Sicily.
Undaunted, I wasn’t ready to give up on the ice cream machine method just yet. I still had lemons, so I halved the recipe. Actually I halved the sugar and water, but I only cut down the lemon juice by ¼ cup. Then I put it in the refrigerator to chill overnight and I would continue the next day.
In the morning I took the granita out of the freezer and broke out the hand blender. This was a little harder than I thought it would be, but once I got some of it broken up it got easier. I mixed it up until it was nice and slushy and scooped it out. It wasn’t bad for my first try. The consistency was close to what I am trying to achieve(although it was closer to the Italian Ices you get here in the New York area than true Sicilian granita), but it was a little too sweet.
When I tried the ice cream machine method that night I got much better results. I could tell right away that it was going to work. I was pretty happy with the morning’s results with the hand blender, but this was close to perfect. Little chunks of soft ice sitting with just a little bit of liquid in the bottom of the cup. This one was a little more lemony than the first, which I like better also.
I didn’t finish all of the granita, so I transferred it to a container, covered and placed it in the freezer. The next morning when I took it out to have my Sicilian style breakfast, I discovered the flaw in the ice cream machine method. The granita was a block of solid ice and impossible to scoop or scrape out. The one made with the hand blender, on the other hand, retains its consistency better when sitting in the freezer and is always relatively easy to serve.
So, which method do I recommend? I say there is room for both. If you are making the granita for dessert after a dinner party and will most likely be serving all of it immediately, use the ice ceam machine. If you are making a big batch to keep handy in the freezer for refreshing snack on hot days or a breakfast alla Sicilia, use the hand blender.
I continued to experiment with the formula, adding the lemon zest, the pulp, adjusting the sugar, etc. To my surprise I found that the best combination was the second one I tried. So there you have my valiant attempt to duplicate something that is essentially impossible to duplicate. That doesn’t mean that it is not worth making, because it is still a delicious and refreshing snack.
Quest for Sicilian Granita
By Phil Torre
If you have never been to Sicily, you have never had granita. Granita is Italian ice, but it is nothing like the Italian ice you find here in America. They are completely different, from the taste to the consistency. Some of my fondest memories of my visits to Sicily are of sitting in the café in the morning and having a Granita di Limone and brioche for breakfast. That’s right I said for breakfast. In the summer in Sicily, granita and gelato are breakfast foods. That's what I call paradise!This summer I decided to take on the daunting task of trying to approximate Sicilian granita starting with my favorite flavor, lemon. When I say approximate I do mean just that, I wasn't going to kid myself into thinking that I could get it exactly the way it is in Sicily. The only way you can get true Sicilian granita is by going to the island itself. There are just too many variables involved, starting with the lemons. You can pick a lemon off a tree in Sicily and eat it like an apple. They are much sweeter than any lemons you can get here.
My first thoughts went to trying to achieve the right consistency. You could never serve true granita in the paper cups for people to eat like an ice cream cone that Italian pastry shops in the states serve ices in. Granita is way too wet; it must be served in glass and eaten with a spoon.
I decided that I was going to try two methods. My Mother told me that my Aunt in Sicily makes her own granita, by freezing it and then using a hand blender to crush it up. I was going to try this method, in addition to my own idea, which is using my ice cream machine.
I thought that trying to get the flavor down was going to be harder. I had several formulas I was going to try. First, I went with the most basic method: water, sugar, and lemon juice. Later I would try adding grated lemon zest to the mixture to see if it helped. Finally, I was going to try spooning out all of the pulp from the lemons and puréeing that for the mixture. All along I would be adjusting the sugar until I got as close to the real thing as possible.
I placed 4 cups of water and 1-1/2 cups of sugar in a pot over low heat and stirred until the sugar dissolved. Then I added ¾ cup of fresh squeezed lemon juice and stirred well. Normally, if I am making ice cream I make the custard and chill it in the refrigerator for a few hours before trying to freeze it in the ice cream machine. But, since I didn’t want the granita to freeze too much I figured it was ok to just let it get to room temperature. That was my first mistake.
I was ready to freeze, so I got the machine going and start pouring in the mixture. I poured it all in and my first thought was I filled it too high. That was my second mistake. “No way is this going to freeze,” I thought. Well, I was right. So I had to go into salvage mode. I transferred the mixture to a container, covered it and placed it in the freezer. I figured in the morning I could try my Aunt’s method with the hand blender. Then I could have granita for breakfast, just like in Sicily.
Undaunted, I wasn’t ready to give up on the ice cream machine method just yet. I still had lemons, so I halved the recipe. Actually I halved the sugar and water, but I only cut down the lemon juice by ¼ cup. Then I put it in the refrigerator to chill overnight and I would continue the next day.
In the morning I took the granita out of the freezer and broke out the hand blender. This was a little harder than I thought it would be, but once I got some of it broken up it got easier. I mixed it up until it was nice and slushy and scooped it out. It wasn’t bad for my first try. The consistency was close to what I am trying to achieve(although it was closer to the Italian Ices you get here in the New York area than true Sicilian granita), but it was a little too sweet.
When I tried the ice cream machine method that night I got much better results. I could tell right away that it was going to work. I was pretty happy with the morning’s results with the hand blender, but this was close to perfect. Little chunks of soft ice sitting with just a little bit of liquid in the bottom of the cup. This one was a little more lemony than the first, which I like better also.
I didn’t finish all of the granita, so I transferred it to a container, covered and placed it in the freezer. The next morning when I took it out to have my Sicilian style breakfast, I discovered the flaw in the ice cream machine method. The granita was a block of solid ice and impossible to scoop or scrape out. The one made with the hand blender, on the other hand, retains its consistency better when sitting in the freezer and is always relatively easy to serve.
So, which method do I recommend? I say there is room for both. If you are making the granita for dessert after a dinner party and will most likely be serving all of it immediately, use the ice ceam machine. If you are making a big batch to keep handy in the freezer for refreshing snack on hot days or a breakfast alla Sicilia, use the hand blender.
I continued to experiment with the formula, adding the lemon zest, the pulp, adjusting the sugar, etc. To my surprise I found that the best combination was the second one I tried. So there you have my valiant attempt to duplicate something that is essentially impossible to duplicate. That doesn’t mean that it is not worth making, because it is still a delicious and refreshing snack.
Monday, July 02, 2007
Koreans Share Their Secret for Chicken With a Crunch
Found this floating on the web. Please let me know if you know the source.
Koreans Share Their Secret for Chicken With a Crunch
WHEN Joe McPherson moved to Seoul in 2002, he thought he was leaving fried chicken behind. “I grew up watching Popeyes training videos,” Mr. McPherson said. His father managed a Popeyes franchise near Atlanta and fried chicken was a constant presence in his life.
“Living in the South, you think you know fried chicken,” he said. But in Seoul, he said, “there is a mom-and-pop chicken place literally on every corner.” Many Asian cooking traditions include deep-fried chicken, but the popular cult of crunchy, spicy, perfectly nongreasy chicken — the apotheosis of the Korean style — is a recent development.
In the New York area, Korean-style fried chicken places have just begun to appear, reproducing the delicate crust, addictive seasoning and moist meat Koreans are devoted to.
“Food in Korea is very trendy,” said Myung J. Chung, an owner of the Manhattan franchise of Bon Chon Chicken, a karaoke-and-chicken lounge that opened in December. “Other trends last two or three years, but fried chicken has lasted for 20 years,” he said.
Platters of fried chicken are a hugely popular bar food in South Korea — like chicken wings in the United States, they are downed with beer or soju, after work or after dinner, rarely eaten as a meal.
“Some places have a very thin, crisp skin; some places have more garlicky, sticky sauces; some advertise that they are healthy because they fry in 100 percent olive oil,” said Mr. McPherson, an English teacher, who writes a food blog called zenkimchi.com/FoodJournal.
“Suddenly there will be a long line outside one chicken place, for no apparent reason, and then the next week, it’s somewhere else.”
Even Korea’s corner bars and fast-food chicken chains are preoccupied with the quality, freshness and integrity of their product.
With Korean-style chicken outlets opening recently in New York, New Jersey and California, fried chicken has begun to complete its round-trip flight from the States to Seoul.
“I really think we make it better than the original,” said Young Jin, who opened a friendly little chicken joint called Unidentified Flying Chickens in Jackson Heights last month. “We use fresh, not frozen, chicken, always fried to order, no trans fats, no heat lamps.”
In Korea, chickens are much smaller, so the whole chicken is fried and served, hacked up into bite-size pieces. But the large breasts and thighs of American chickens are a challenge to cook evenly.
According to Mr. Jin and others, that’s why the Korean-style chicken places here serve mostly wings (true connoisseurs can specify either the upper “arm” or the “wing”) and small drumsticks. The chicken is typically seasoned only after it is fried, with either a sweetish garlic-soy glaze or a hotter red-pepper sauce that brings the dish into Buffalo wing territory.
But do not look for blue cheese and celery sticks, or even biscuits and gravy. The typical accompaniment to Korean fried chicken is cubes of pickled radish and plenty of beer or soju; the combination produces an irresistible repetition of salt and spice, cold and hot, briny and sweet, crunchy and tender.
“People — even Americans — say the combination is really addictive,” said Ryan Jhun, Mr. Chung’s brother-in-law and business partner. Mr. Jhun spent a month training with the founder of Bon Chon to master the chain’s frying method, which produces characteristically light and crunchy pieces. Bon Chon, Bon Bon and Unidentified Flying Chickens all base their technique on the one developed by Kyochon, one of the most popular Korean chains. Although none of the chicken fryers interviewed would describe the method in its entirety, its outline is clear.
(Warning: partisans of Southern-fried chicken will find much that is blasphemous in the following.)
For crunch, American-style fried chicken relies on a thick, well-seasoned crust, often made even thicker by soaking the chicken pieces beforehand in buttermilk. When that crust is nubbly and evenly browned, and the chicken meat is cooked through, the chicken is sublime. But too often, the flesh is still raw when the crust is cooked, or the skin never cooks all the way through, leaving a flabby layer of skin between the meat and the crust.
Korean-style fried chicken is radically different, reflecting an Asian frying technique that renders out the fat in the skin, transforming it into a thin, crackly and almost transparent crust. (Chinese cooks call this “paper fried chicken.”) The chicken is unseasoned, barely dredged in very fine flour and then dipped into a thin batter before going into the fryer. The oil temperature is a relatively low 350 degrees, and the chicken is cooked in two separate stages.
After 10 minutes, the chicken is removed from the oil, shaken vigorously in a wire strainer and allowed to cool for two minutes. This slows the cooking process, preventing the crust from getting too brown before the meat cooks through. It also shaves off all those crusty nubs and crags that American cooks strive for.
After 10 more minutes in the fryer, the chicken is smooth, compact, golden-brown, and done. Then, it’s served plain (with a small dish of salt and pepper for seasoning) or lightly painted with sauce. When it’s done correctly, the sauce is absorbed into the crust, adding savor without making it soggy.
Last week, I tasted chicken from four different Korean-style spots, and arrived at a rule of thumb that the best chicken had the least sauce (although chicken with no sauce at all was weirdly bland). The chain Cheogajip was more heavy-handed with the sauce than the others, making their chicken too sticky and sweet. But all the other chicken was at least tasty and even delicious, remaining crisp through the day and when reheated the next morning. The sauces at Unidentified Flying Chickens, which Mr. Jin makes from scratch and is still developing, had the most rounded flavors.
Mr. Jin sees his new store, located in a neighborhood that is more Latino than Asian, as the cradle of a multicultural empire devoted to one thing: perfect fried chicken.
“You wouldn’t go to a soft tofu store and expect to find great kalbi,” he said, referring to the grilled, sweet-and-salty short ribs that are another Korean favorite. “When you make only one thing, and you make people wait for 20 minutes to get it, it had better be good.”
A Sampler
Here are places to try Korean-style fried chicken in New York City. Seating is often limited. All chicken is fried to order, so for takeout or delivery, call at least 30 minutes ahead.
BON CHON CHICKEN 314 Fifth Avenue (32nd Street), second floor, (212) 221-2222; and 157-18 Northern Boulevard (157th Street), Queens, (718) 321-3818.
BON BON CHICKEN 98 Chambers Street (Church Street), (212) 227-2375, opening in March.
UNIDENTIFIED FLYING CHICKENS 71-22 Roosevelt Avenue (71st Street), Queens, (718) 205-6662.
“Living in the South, you think you know fried chicken,” he said. But in Seoul, he said, “there is a mom-and-pop chicken place literally on every corner.” Many Asian cooking traditions include deep-fried chicken, but the popular cult of crunchy, spicy, perfectly nongreasy chicken — the apotheosis of the Korean style — is a recent development.
In the New York area, Korean-style fried chicken places have just begun to appear, reproducing the delicate crust, addictive seasoning and moist meat Koreans are devoted to.
“Food in Korea is very trendy,” said Myung J. Chung, an owner of the Manhattan franchise of Bon Chon Chicken, a karaoke-and-chicken lounge that opened in December. “Other trends last two or three years, but fried chicken has lasted for 20 years,” he said.
Platters of fried chicken are a hugely popular bar food in South Korea — like chicken wings in the United States, they are downed with beer or soju, after work or after dinner, rarely eaten as a meal.
“Some places have a very thin, crisp skin; some places have more garlicky, sticky sauces; some advertise that they are healthy because they fry in 100 percent olive oil,” said Mr. McPherson, an English teacher, who writes a food blog called zenkimchi.com/FoodJournal.
“Suddenly there will be a long line outside one chicken place, for no apparent reason, and then the next week, it’s somewhere else.”
Even Korea’s corner bars and fast-food chicken chains are preoccupied with the quality, freshness and integrity of their product.
With Korean-style chicken outlets opening recently in New York, New Jersey and California, fried chicken has begun to complete its round-trip flight from the States to Seoul.
“I really think we make it better than the original,” said Young Jin, who opened a friendly little chicken joint called Unidentified Flying Chickens in Jackson Heights last month. “We use fresh, not frozen, chicken, always fried to order, no trans fats, no heat lamps.”
In Korea, chickens are much smaller, so the whole chicken is fried and served, hacked up into bite-size pieces. But the large breasts and thighs of American chickens are a challenge to cook evenly.
According to Mr. Jin and others, that’s why the Korean-style chicken places here serve mostly wings (true connoisseurs can specify either the upper “arm” or the “wing”) and small drumsticks. The chicken is typically seasoned only after it is fried, with either a sweetish garlic-soy glaze or a hotter red-pepper sauce that brings the dish into Buffalo wing territory.
But do not look for blue cheese and celery sticks, or even biscuits and gravy. The typical accompaniment to Korean fried chicken is cubes of pickled radish and plenty of beer or soju; the combination produces an irresistible repetition of salt and spice, cold and hot, briny and sweet, crunchy and tender.
“People — even Americans — say the combination is really addictive,” said Ryan Jhun, Mr. Chung’s brother-in-law and business partner. Mr. Jhun spent a month training with the founder of Bon Chon to master the chain’s frying method, which produces characteristically light and crunchy pieces. Bon Chon, Bon Bon and Unidentified Flying Chickens all base their technique on the one developed by Kyochon, one of the most popular Korean chains. Although none of the chicken fryers interviewed would describe the method in its entirety, its outline is clear.
(Warning: partisans of Southern-fried chicken will find much that is blasphemous in the following.)
For crunch, American-style fried chicken relies on a thick, well-seasoned crust, often made even thicker by soaking the chicken pieces beforehand in buttermilk. When that crust is nubbly and evenly browned, and the chicken meat is cooked through, the chicken is sublime. But too often, the flesh is still raw when the crust is cooked, or the skin never cooks all the way through, leaving a flabby layer of skin between the meat and the crust.
Korean-style fried chicken is radically different, reflecting an Asian frying technique that renders out the fat in the skin, transforming it into a thin, crackly and almost transparent crust. (Chinese cooks call this “paper fried chicken.”) The chicken is unseasoned, barely dredged in very fine flour and then dipped into a thin batter before going into the fryer. The oil temperature is a relatively low 350 degrees, and the chicken is cooked in two separate stages.
After 10 minutes, the chicken is removed from the oil, shaken vigorously in a wire strainer and allowed to cool for two minutes. This slows the cooking process, preventing the crust from getting too brown before the meat cooks through. It also shaves off all those crusty nubs and crags that American cooks strive for.
After 10 more minutes in the fryer, the chicken is smooth, compact, golden-brown, and done. Then, it’s served plain (with a small dish of salt and pepper for seasoning) or lightly painted with sauce. When it’s done correctly, the sauce is absorbed into the crust, adding savor without making it soggy.
Last week, I tasted chicken from four different Korean-style spots, and arrived at a rule of thumb that the best chicken had the least sauce (although chicken with no sauce at all was weirdly bland). The chain Cheogajip was more heavy-handed with the sauce than the others, making their chicken too sticky and sweet. But all the other chicken was at least tasty and even delicious, remaining crisp through the day and when reheated the next morning. The sauces at Unidentified Flying Chickens, which Mr. Jin makes from scratch and is still developing, had the most rounded flavors.
Mr. Jin sees his new store, located in a neighborhood that is more Latino than Asian, as the cradle of a multicultural empire devoted to one thing: perfect fried chicken.
“You wouldn’t go to a soft tofu store and expect to find great kalbi,” he said, referring to the grilled, sweet-and-salty short ribs that are another Korean favorite. “When you make only one thing, and you make people wait for 20 minutes to get it, it had better be good.”
A Sampler
Here are places to try Korean-style fried chicken in New York City. Seating is often limited. All chicken is fried to order, so for takeout or delivery, call at least 30 minutes ahead.
BON CHON CHICKEN 314 Fifth Avenue (32nd Street), second floor, (212) 221-2222; and 157-18 Northern Boulevard (157th Street), Queens, (718) 321-3818.
BON BON CHICKEN 98 Chambers Street (Church Street), (212) 227-2375, opening in March.
UNIDENTIFIED FLYING CHICKENS 71-22 Roosevelt Avenue (71st Street), Queens, (718) 205-6662.
Friday, May 25, 2007
Nihari a la Mexican style
From Hindu Business Line
Asif Noorani
| On the trail of a century-old hakeem's concoction that straddles the Indo-Pak divide with gourmet relish... |
Karachi is the only Pakistani city to offer South Indian delicacies like idlis and dosas, and, of course, has enough gourmets to enjoy the fare on offer. Goan cuisine was once served by the Pereira brothers, who ran a bakery and a restaurant. The two fell out and the restaurant dropped shutters. Later the bakery, which sold succulent chicken patties, closed down too. Now one only gets prawn balchao, which is made by a couple of old Goan ladies, but on a limited stage. But Parsi delicacies, such as dhansak, are available in at least two restaurants.
Vegetarian thali, Gujarati style, has been a favourite of Karachites for a long time. Pioneer Coffee House used to serve it on Tuesdays and Wednesdays, which used to be meatless days, but it closed down when its proprietor Merchant's children migrated to North America. Merchant was an obliging person. When the noted Indian sports writer Kishore Bhimani, accompanying the Indian cricket team on its 1978 tour, was looking for a vegetarian restaurant, I took him to Pioneer. It was not a meatless day but Merchant said he would improvise a veggie meal for his Indian guest. He needed an hour, enough time for the visitor to look for Pathani chappals and audiocassettes of Munni Begum and Mehdi Hasan. The hot meal was ready when we returned and it came on the house! Incidentally, the Karachi Press Club serves good veggies and daal too. But you have to be a member or a member's guest to enjoy the fare.
Bhimani wrote that Pakistan was a nightmare for vegetarians but Ajmal Noorani's house in Karachi was an oasis. My wife learnt to cook the veggies from her mother-in-law and the party that we held for two Indian and several Pakistani journalists threw up a surprise. One half of the table was served pooris and a wide variety of bhujyas, while the other had Mughlai delicacies. No one touched the otherwise mouth-watering biryani and kebabs. We had to quickly make additional dough for the pooris, which were in great demand.
Nihari mania
But if there is one dish that migrated from Delhi to Karachi and became a roaring success then it is none other than nihari, a curry with lots of red meat, a sprinkling of bheja (brain) and garnished with thin slices of ginger. It was concocted at least a hundred years ago in Delhi by a hakeem. It was called nihari (meaning morning) and was supposed to be taken on winter mornings. Initially the chefs from Delhi who opened nihari restaurants in Karachi after Partition served the dish only in the morning but soon they discovered that there was a lot more demand at night, so they offered it for dinner too and even made arrangements for takeaways. Commercial interests prevailed over principles. They also reduced the chillies in the curry and the move paid off. Now nihari is available round the clock at restaurants that remain open 24x7. Even poor people have it, though without the expensive bheja. One nihari joint in an upmarket area has made arrangements for home delivery too.
A few years ago when I was visiting Delhi, a friend asked me what I wished to have for dinner. I said "Nihari", and the man looked at me in amazement. "You have to come to my house early in the morning to have it, which is when it would be available," he said. I didn't want to further shock the puritan by saying that nihari was available in Karachi — morning, noon and night.
Today nihari is also available in most cities of the US and the people who have helped it cross the seven seas are Karachites, and not Dilliwalas. As a nihari-buff I have tried it in Pakistani restaurants in New York, Houston, San Francisco and Chicago, but found the best in a place called Devon Avenue in downtown Chicago, full of sub-continental restaurants and boutiques. The place is called Sabir Nihari House. One has to wait half-an-hour to get a table. But it's worth the wait.
And you know who cooks the nihari? Many prizes for guessing... he is a Mexican, once an understudy of a Pakistani chef. He is an illegal immigrant and, for all you know, he may some day move back to his country and start a nihari joint there. Mexicans take spicy food and nihari has the potential to tickle their palates.
From Delhi to Mexico City, via Karachi and Chicago. What an exciting journey it would be!
Thursday, March 22, 2007
Make Your Burgers Taste Even Better
We all know how to make a hamburger, but some burgers are better than others.
When the editors of Cook's Illustrated magazine were working on 'The Best Recipe' (Boston Common Press, $29.95), they wanted to know the secret to making not just a better burger but the best burger.
Here are some tips, from them and from others:
o Use ground chuck, preferably a chuck roast you've cajoled the butcher into grinding for you. Or you can grind it yourself at home in a food processor.
Make sure the meat is cold, cut into small (roughly 3/4 inch) chunks and process in small batches.
It also helps to chill the bowl and the blade in the freezer for 30 minutes.
~ Eighty percent lean meat is best; more fat and the burger will be greasy; less and it won't be as tender and juicy.
~ Season meat before shaping it into patties.
~ If you're planning cheeseburgers, an alternative to a slice of cheese on top is to grate the cheese directly into the raw beef.
~ Divide the meat into (6-ounce) portions, toss it from hand to hand to form a ball and press it into a patty with your fingertips to avoid overworking the meat.
~ The perfect burger has a crisp, flavorful crust and a moist, tender interior.
Grilling and pan-searing, especially in a cast-iron skillet, can produce these qualities as long as the grill rack or pan is hot when you start.
~ Don't press down while the burgers cook. It squeezes out the juice and makes them dry.
~ Don't flip constantly. Once on each side should do it.
~ To avoid burgers with that puffy domed shape that allows condiments to slide off, form a slight depression in the center of each patty.
On the grill, the center will puff up on its own and the burger will be more uniform.
from the "Meat Cookbook," by Bruce Aidells and Denis Kelly;
article courtesy Mercury News wire services.
When the editors of Cook's Illustrated magazine were working on 'The Best Recipe' (Boston Common Press, $29.95), they wanted to know the secret to making not just a better burger but the best burger.
Here are some tips, from them and from others:
o Use ground chuck, preferably a chuck roast you've cajoled the butcher into grinding for you. Or you can grind it yourself at home in a food processor.
Make sure the meat is cold, cut into small (roughly 3/4 inch) chunks and process in small batches.
It also helps to chill the bowl and the blade in the freezer for 30 minutes.
~ Eighty percent lean meat is best; more fat and the burger will be greasy; less and it won't be as tender and juicy.
~ Season meat before shaping it into patties.
~ If you're planning cheeseburgers, an alternative to a slice of cheese on top is to grate the cheese directly into the raw beef.
~ Divide the meat into (6-ounce) portions, toss it from hand to hand to form a ball and press it into a patty with your fingertips to avoid overworking the meat.
~ The perfect burger has a crisp, flavorful crust and a moist, tender interior.
Grilling and pan-searing, especially in a cast-iron skillet, can produce these qualities as long as the grill rack or pan is hot when you start.
~ Don't press down while the burgers cook. It squeezes out the juice and makes them dry.
~ Don't flip constantly. Once on each side should do it.
~ To avoid burgers with that puffy domed shape that allows condiments to slide off, form a slight depression in the center of each patty.
On the grill, the center will puff up on its own and the burger will be more uniform.
from the "Meat Cookbook," by Bruce Aidells and Denis Kelly;
article courtesy Mercury News wire services.
Saturday, March 10, 2007
Your Astrological Food Profile
Eating is a universal activity. Every sun sign has a different attitude and approach to the business of eating. See if you can recognize yourself and your own unique relationship to food.
Aries: Arians like to be first and they like to stir things up, but their follow-through abilities are suspect. They would do well to prepare something exciting but also quick so they don't abandon the recipe mid-stream. Whatever they want, they want it now, so if you've invited an Arian to dinner, make sure you have plenty of hors-d'oeuvres available as soon as they walk in the door.
Taurus: Taureans are known for their fondness of luxury, sensuality and rich food. They will eat anything but prefer foods that are expensive and decadent. Champagne, caviar, truffles and smoked salmon make Taureans happy and content. They love romantic dinners. The flip side of this self-indulgence is a tendency to gain weight. Taureans must strive to go easy on the good life and go for an occasional walk instead.
Gemini: Variety is very important to Geminis in every area of life and food is no exception. Buffets are a favorite as they offer the opportunity to load up the plate with a little of this and a tad of that. Boredom is anathema to Geminis so dinner must include not only a variety of foods but also stimulating conversation. As cooks, they are the pioneers. They like to experiment. If you are a guest at a Gemini's dinner table, expect the unexpected.
Cancer: You'd think most Cancers were practically born in the kitchen. They are equally at home being the nurturer or nurtured. They love being fed, especially when sick. Bring them homemade soup and toast (that's what Mom did) and they are yours forever. They are equally soothed by feeding others. The only time they become crabby on the subject of food is when there isn't enough.
Leo: Leos, the undisputed kings and queens of the zodiac, are most comfortable in the fanciest restaurant in town. They are more interested in how nicely their food is served than in what they actually eating, though their appetites are huge. Being generous, they love to pick up restaurant tabs and share good food with their loved ones. If going to their house, expect quite a show. It's not that all Leos like to show-off, but it's a rare one that doesn't enjoy an appreciative audience.
Virgo: Some people consider Virgos to be a tiny bit uptight about what they eat. Virgos will tell you they don't care what they eat as long as it is 100% all natural, organic, whole-grain and sugar free. They feel better eating that way. This is really their business, but a problem often arises because they also feel better when you eat that way. Virgos not only want to take care of themselves, they want to take care of you too. Don't fight them. It's impossible. Besides don't you feel better having eaten all that brown rice, tofu and greens?
Libra: Libras are the most gracious hosts and hostesses and look good while doing it. They like nice, beautiful food served in a tranquil, harmonious setting. They enjoy small and lovely embellishments; delicate china, lacy linens and silver trays. If you are the host, be sure to feed them a rich dessert: most Libras have a self-indulgent side and will not decline souffles, cream puffs or Napoleons.
Scorpio: Scorpios tend to be dark, intense and mysterious. They need to eat like the rest of us mere mortals but their willpower and dedication concerning food can be astounding. Once they set their mind to something, whether it's sticking to a Spartan diet or creating a traditional ten-course Moroccan meal, they will succeed. They have few fears, food related or otherwise and can often be found digging into a meal of squid stewed in its own ink or risking their lives by tasting the sometimes poisonous blowfish.
Sagittarius: Sagittariuses, the adventurers of the zodiac will try anything as long as it's exciting. They are the pathfinders in foreign travel and you'll often find them exploring cuisine's of exotic countries or thumbing through obscure cook books. They make enthusiastic, lively dinner guests. They tend to eat a lot, especially when spinning tales during dinner, so be sure there's enough pad Thai or bouillabaisse to go around.
Capricorn: Capricorns are traditional 'meat and potato' men and women. They often appear aloof, a mask for their shyness and uncertainty. They are always grateful for the comforting and familiar. Although they usually amass a nice nest egg during their working lives, it can be difficult for them to splurge on luxuries like nice restaurants. This creates a conflict because they are attracted to the 'good things in life.' Cook them a fancy dinner. Better yet, take them out and spring for the bill. They will be most grateful.
Aquarius: Is it new, different, unusual? If not, Aquarians probably won't notice it. They don't follow trends. They create them. Their eating habits can be erratic, like their schedules. When they eat by themselves, they often consume some downright weird food combinations and can sometimes be found to eat breakfast at dinner time and vice versa.
Pisces: Most of these sensitive souls are vegetarians in their hearts because they feel pain at the thought of killing anything just so they can eat. They are a gentle bunch and prefer dining quietly, perhaps with soothing background music. Like Aquarians they tend to forget to eat at times. If they invite you to dinner, arrive early in case they forget because they went off to help someone.
Aries: Arians like to be first and they like to stir things up, but their follow-through abilities are suspect. They would do well to prepare something exciting but also quick so they don't abandon the recipe mid-stream. Whatever they want, they want it now, so if you've invited an Arian to dinner, make sure you have plenty of hors-d'oeuvres available as soon as they walk in the door.
Taurus: Taureans are known for their fondness of luxury, sensuality and rich food. They will eat anything but prefer foods that are expensive and decadent. Champagne, caviar, truffles and smoked salmon make Taureans happy and content. They love romantic dinners. The flip side of this self-indulgence is a tendency to gain weight. Taureans must strive to go easy on the good life and go for an occasional walk instead.
Gemini: Variety is very important to Geminis in every area of life and food is no exception. Buffets are a favorite as they offer the opportunity to load up the plate with a little of this and a tad of that. Boredom is anathema to Geminis so dinner must include not only a variety of foods but also stimulating conversation. As cooks, they are the pioneers. They like to experiment. If you are a guest at a Gemini's dinner table, expect the unexpected.
Cancer: You'd think most Cancers were practically born in the kitchen. They are equally at home being the nurturer or nurtured. They love being fed, especially when sick. Bring them homemade soup and toast (that's what Mom did) and they are yours forever. They are equally soothed by feeding others. The only time they become crabby on the subject of food is when there isn't enough.
Leo: Leos, the undisputed kings and queens of the zodiac, are most comfortable in the fanciest restaurant in town. They are more interested in how nicely their food is served than in what they actually eating, though their appetites are huge. Being generous, they love to pick up restaurant tabs and share good food with their loved ones. If going to their house, expect quite a show. It's not that all Leos like to show-off, but it's a rare one that doesn't enjoy an appreciative audience.
Virgo: Some people consider Virgos to be a tiny bit uptight about what they eat. Virgos will tell you they don't care what they eat as long as it is 100% all natural, organic, whole-grain and sugar free. They feel better eating that way. This is really their business, but a problem often arises because they also feel better when you eat that way. Virgos not only want to take care of themselves, they want to take care of you too. Don't fight them. It's impossible. Besides don't you feel better having eaten all that brown rice, tofu and greens?
Libra: Libras are the most gracious hosts and hostesses and look good while doing it. They like nice, beautiful food served in a tranquil, harmonious setting. They enjoy small and lovely embellishments; delicate china, lacy linens and silver trays. If you are the host, be sure to feed them a rich dessert: most Libras have a self-indulgent side and will not decline souffles, cream puffs or Napoleons.
Scorpio: Scorpios tend to be dark, intense and mysterious. They need to eat like the rest of us mere mortals but their willpower and dedication concerning food can be astounding. Once they set their mind to something, whether it's sticking to a Spartan diet or creating a traditional ten-course Moroccan meal, they will succeed. They have few fears, food related or otherwise and can often be found digging into a meal of squid stewed in its own ink or risking their lives by tasting the sometimes poisonous blowfish.
Sagittarius: Sagittariuses, the adventurers of the zodiac will try anything as long as it's exciting. They are the pathfinders in foreign travel and you'll often find them exploring cuisine's of exotic countries or thumbing through obscure cook books. They make enthusiastic, lively dinner guests. They tend to eat a lot, especially when spinning tales during dinner, so be sure there's enough pad Thai or bouillabaisse to go around.
Capricorn: Capricorns are traditional 'meat and potato' men and women. They often appear aloof, a mask for their shyness and uncertainty. They are always grateful for the comforting and familiar. Although they usually amass a nice nest egg during their working lives, it can be difficult for them to splurge on luxuries like nice restaurants. This creates a conflict because they are attracted to the 'good things in life.' Cook them a fancy dinner. Better yet, take them out and spring for the bill. They will be most grateful.
Aquarius: Is it new, different, unusual? If not, Aquarians probably won't notice it. They don't follow trends. They create them. Their eating habits can be erratic, like their schedules. When they eat by themselves, they often consume some downright weird food combinations and can sometimes be found to eat breakfast at dinner time and vice versa.
Pisces: Most of these sensitive souls are vegetarians in their hearts because they feel pain at the thought of killing anything just so they can eat. They are a gentle bunch and prefer dining quietly, perhaps with soothing background music. Like Aquarians they tend to forget to eat at times. If they invite you to dinner, arrive early in case they forget because they went off to help someone.
Thursday, February 22, 2007
Street Food : Egypt vs India
When I first considered writing about "Street Food in Cairo" the few people I knew in Cairo had a good laugh & cautioned me that having just arrived in the city I was completely setting myself up for the curse of the Pharaohs. Well, being a desi & with an ability to eat the Pav Bhajis & Paani Puris & Vada Pavs on the streets of India, then the streets of Cairo posed no threat at all, so I was all set to explore Cairo by tasting everything it had to offer. (But I did tuck a strip of lomotil into my wallet to be on the safer side)
There’s such a variety of snacks, meals, quick bites & drinks on offer on the streets of Cairo that it would be impossible to try them all in a few days, but I did manage the highlights.
A good day begins with a good breakfast. A fuul or tamiya sandwich is what is considered ideal. I tried these at ............................Read the whole post on My Egypt Blog
Friday, January 12, 2007
Cover story on Mumbai's foodscape
Please find link to Rushina's cover story for BTW (By the way) on the growing impact food is having on different fields
With India opening up to foreign trade, Mumbaikars have more money, less free time and a greater exposure to foreign influences. This has had immense impact on what they eat and the way they eat. And restaurants, exotic sections at supermarkets, food sections in dailies and publications, books on food and cooking, food on the TV, Radio and internet, the advent of swish cooking classes and food travel are all registering activity. India [is] shining on the gastronomic scene and nowhere is this fact more obvious than in Mumbai. Read more
http://mumbaionaplatter.blogspot.com/2006/12/mumbai-on-platter.html#links Mumbai on the platter
A Perfect Bite
--
Rushina's Blog n food http://a-perfect-bite.blogspot.com/
Rushina's published works http://rushina-mushaw-ghildiyal.blogspot.com/
Rushina's blog on Food in Mumbai http://mumbaionaplatter.blogspot.com/
With India opening up to foreign trade, Mumbaikars have more money, less free time and a greater exposure to foreign influences. This has had immense impact on what they eat and the way they eat. And restaurants, exotic sections at supermarkets, food sections in dailies and publications, books on food and cooking, food on the TV, Radio and internet, the advent of swish cooking classes and food travel are all registering activity. India [is] shining on the gastronomic scene and nowhere is this fact more obvious than in Mumbai. Read more
http://mumbaionaplatter.blogspot.com/2006/12/mumbai-on-platter.html#links Mumbai on the platter
A Perfect Bite
--
Rushina's Blog n food http://a-perfect-bite.blogspot.com/
Rushina's published works http://rushina-mushaw-ghildiyal.blogspot.com/
Rushina's blog on Food in Mumbai http://mumbaionaplatter.blogspot.com/
Monday, November 13, 2006
Mughal flavor in Indian food
http://economictimes.indiatimes.com/Magazines/The_Sunday_ET/As_You_Like_It/Mughal_flavour/articleshow/msid-411661,curpg-2.cms
12 Nov, 2006, 0125 hrs IST,Vikram Doctor,TNN
His son Humayun, while exiled to Persia by Sher Shah Suri, picked up cooking traditions such as carefully constructed rice-based pilaus and the use of fruits and nuts in meat stews. Marriage to Rajput princesses added Indian vegetarian traditions:
Akbar started abstaining from meat twice a week, then for months at a time, and the use of beef was discouraged to allow him to eat with his Rajput allies. Jehangir famously fell for a rich dried fruit and nut enriched khichidi of Gujarat called lazizan, which became one of his favourite foods. The wealth of the Mughals attracted traders from across the Islamic world, then the Portuguese and English, all bringing new foods and ingredients such as the chillies that Zafar liked.
Less often realised is the Mughal influence on the use of onions in Indian food. Onions were well known to the ancient Egyptians and Greeks, but find no mention in the Vedas and Upanishads.
By the 7th century AD a Chinese traveller noted that onions were known in India, but not favoured much. Yet today a rise in their prices shakes governments. The change seems to have happened with the Mughals, with the ‘Ain-i-Akbari’ noting much use of onions with meat dishes, such as dopiaza with its onions used twice.
This might reflect the influence of the larger Islamic world. In Ziryab, Farouk Mardam-Bey’s excellent collection of essays on Arab cuisine, he refers to Morocco and India as the great “onion heavens”. Many Moroccan tagines (stews) start with a base of caramelised onions; add ginger and garlic and you have the standard Mughlai base.
The fall of Delhi ended the Mughal influence, but not that of Mughlai food. Where the Mughals at their height gathered together traditions, in their decline they dispersed them. Breakaway kingdoms developed Mughlai traditions in new directions, most notably in Avadh and Hyderabad, but also places like Bhopal and Calcutta.
Meanwhile the core cooking remained intact in Delhi, both in its Mughlai essence and its Kayasth Hindu vegetarian variant. In his exile in Rangoon, Zafar and his family had to survive on Rs 11 a day doled out by the British (with a magnanimous extra rupee on Sunday). Perhaps it might have been some comfort for him to know how the richness of the cooking of his court would long outlive him.
12 Nov, 2006, 0125 hrs IST,Vikram Doctor,
Dalrymple’s ‘The Last Mughal’ has been acclaimed for its depiction of the 1857 Rising including rarely used Indian sources. Almost as noteworthy is his use of the same sources to paint a vivid picture of the twilight years of Emperor Bahadur Shah Zafar’s court. Beset by British demands on one side, by fundamentalist Sunni mullahs on the other, Zafar presided over a shrinking world that maintained the tolerant, syncretic aspects of Mughal rule. Zafar’s mother was Hindu, he celebrated Holi and watched the Ram-Lila at Diwali, drank only Ganges water and in his own faith was a Sufi rather than orthodox Muslim. Delhi’s food reflected this as well. Dalrymple shows how the British and Mughal worlds, once close in the era of the Anglo-Mughals like Begum Sumru and the Skinner and Gardner families, were now diverging by contrasting their dining habits. The British woke at dawn for a huge breakfast that was heavy on meat: “brain cutlets, beef rissoles, mutton hashes, brawns of sheep’s head and trotters.” And that was just to start with. By the time the court rose, near noon, for a light breakfast of fruits or a mutton shorba, the British had almost finished their day’s work and were settling down to a light (for them) lunch of grilled chicken. Nobody did much during Delhi afternoons, but by evening the British were settling down to another vast meat heavy dinner, while the court was preparing for its main meal of the day. Dalrymple writes that Zafar himself rarely had dinner before 10.30 p.m. by when the British were asleep. His favourite dishes were “quail stew, venison, lamb kidneys on sweet nan called shir mal, yakhni, fish kebabs, and meat stewed with oranges,” though the royal kitchens could also produce a Mughlai feast of 25 types of bread, 25 pulaos and birianis, 35 curries and 50 different puddings. Zafar liked his food well-spiced, including with the chillies that had only relatively recently become a common ingredient in the Indian kitchen. Today Mughlai refers to a rich, rather restaurant style of cooking, but this does little justice to the role the Mughals played in the evolution of Indian food. Major shifts in a country’s cooking have always been driven by invasion, as with the Normans in Britain, or by royal marriages, as when Catherine de Medici took her Italian cooks to the then unsophisticated French court of her husband Henri II. The Mughals did both. When Babur invaded India he brought not just the simple grilled meats of Central Asia, but also a love of fruits and sophisticated food habits picked up in his conquests of great cities like Samarkand. |
Akbar started abstaining from meat twice a week, then for months at a time, and the use of beef was discouraged to allow him to eat with his Rajput allies. Jehangir famously fell for a rich dried fruit and nut enriched khichidi of Gujarat called lazizan, which became one of his favourite foods. The wealth of the Mughals attracted traders from across the Islamic world, then the Portuguese and English, all bringing new foods and ingredients such as the chillies that Zafar liked.
Less often realised is the Mughal influence on the use of onions in Indian food. Onions were well known to the ancient Egyptians and Greeks, but find no mention in the Vedas and Upanishads.
By the 7th century AD a Chinese traveller noted that onions were known in India, but not favoured much. Yet today a rise in their prices shakes governments. The change seems to have happened with the Mughals, with the ‘Ain-i-Akbari’ noting much use of onions with meat dishes, such as dopiaza with its onions used twice.
This might reflect the influence of the larger Islamic world. In Ziryab, Farouk Mardam-Bey’s excellent collection of essays on Arab cuisine, he refers to Morocco and India as the great “onion heavens”. Many Moroccan tagines (stews) start with a base of caramelised onions; add ginger and garlic and you have the standard Mughlai base.
The fall of Delhi ended the Mughal influence, but not that of Mughlai food. Where the Mughals at their height gathered together traditions, in their decline they dispersed them. Breakaway kingdoms developed Mughlai traditions in new directions, most notably in Avadh and Hyderabad, but also places like Bhopal and Calcutta.
Meanwhile the core cooking remained intact in Delhi, both in its Mughlai essence and its Kayasth Hindu vegetarian variant. In his exile in Rangoon, Zafar and his family had to survive on Rs 11 a day doled out by the British (with a magnanimous extra rupee on Sunday). Perhaps it might have been some comfort for him to know how the richness of the cooking of his court would long outlive him.
Sunday, November 12, 2006
Some Egyptian Dishes
Courtesy my moving to Egypt, (For more info, click on this link) here are some Egyptian Recipes :
Beans Egyptian Dry Beans (Foul)
- 1 can dried, small, fava beans
- 1 tbsp olive oil
- salt & pepper, to taste
- 1/2 tsp ground coriander
- 1/2 tsp cumin
- 1 tbsp lemon juice
- 2 cloves garlic, crushed
- 4 hard-boiled eggs, shelled
- coriander leaves
- Soak fava beans in cold water overnight.
- Drain fava beans the following day.
- Cook in water on a medium heat for 45 minutes.
- Strain beans then mix with olive oil, salt, pepper, ground coriander, cumin, lemon juice and garlic.
- Serve beans in ramekins and put hard-boiled egg in middle of each one.
- Decorate with coriander leaves.
Stuffed Pigeons (Hamam Mahshy)
- 4 pigeons (1 lb each)
- pigeon giblets, chopped
- onion, chopped
- butter
- salt
- pepper
- cornmeal
- mint
- cooked rice
- Preheat oven (200°C/400°F).
- Heat the butter and add the onion, salt, pepper and giblets.
- Then, toss the giblets in cornmeal and mint until golden brown.
- Clean the pigeons and rub them inside and out with salt and pepper.
- Stuff each pigeon with the giblets and the previously cooked rice.
- Place the pigeons in a casserole.
- Add enough hot water to cover the bottom of the casserole.
- Pour the remaining butter over the pigeons.
- Roast in preheated oven for 50 minutes.
- Add additional water when needed.
- Put some of the pigeon stock in a saucepan with the remaining cornmeal.
- Cover and simmer for about 30 minutes.
- Serve with the roast pigeons.
Grilled minced chicken rolls (Koftet Ferakh)
Left over chicken or a whole boiled chicken
- Knead the chicken well to make a smooth mixture.
- Form the chicken mixture into small balls.
- Flatten into circles.
- Put the meat in the fridge for 15 minutes.
- Fry or roast.
Although some dishes are similar to Middle East Cuisine, Egypt is famous for its typical, local specialities such as "Foul" (Egyptian dry beans), "Molokhia" (a soup made of molokhia leaves and chicken), or "Mahshi" (an assortment of different vegetables usually stuffed with rice and minced meat). You can try some of the following recipes :
Drinks Hibiscus (Karkade)
- 1 cup hibiscus petals
- 2 cups sugar
- Remove any stems and leaves from the dried hibiscus petals.
- Soak the petals in cold water for 1-2 hours.
- Boil the soaked petals in the same water.
- Strain water from petals immediately.
- Keep straining until the petals loose their reddish color.
- Discard the strained petals.
- Sweeten with sugar while hot.
- Can be served hot or cold.
- 1 cup hibiscus petals
- 2 cups sugar
- Remove any stems and leaves from the dried hibiscus petals.
- Soak the petals in cold water for 1-2 hours.
- Boil the soaked petals in the same water.
- Strain water from petals immediately.
- Keep straining until the petals loose their reddish color.
- Discard the strained petals.
- Sweeten with sugar while hot.
- Can be served hot or cold.
Soups : Green Soup (Molokhia)
- 1 pound fresh molokhia leaves (or frozen and thawed)
- 6 cups chicken stock
- 1 bay leaf
- 1 small onion, finely chopped
- black pepper, to taste
- several garlic cloves, crushed
- 1 tsp ground coriander
- 1 tsp salt
- juice of one lemon
- cardamom or cinnamon, to taste
- 2 tbsp cooking oil
- 5 pound chicken
- cooked rice
- Bring the chicken stock to a near boil.
- Chop the molokhia leaves as finely as possible (frozen molokhia is usually cleaned and chopped).
- Add the molokhia, stirring well.
- Stir in the bay leaf, onion and black pepper.
- Reduce heat and leave to simmer for about twenty minutes.
- Meanwhile, grind the garlic, ground coriander and the salt together into a paste and fry in oil until browned (the mixture is known as Ta'liya).
- Add the Ta'liya to the simmering molokhia with any remaining ingredients and stir well.
- Continue simmering for a few minutes and stir occasionally.
- Serve immediately with boiled rice and boiled chicken.
Creamy Risotto with onions (Keshk)
- 1 cup of yoghurt
- ½ cup of flour
- 1 cup of milk
- 2 tsp of cornflour
- 6 cups of chicken stock
- pinch of salt
- 1 onion, peeled
- 1 tsp of butter
- Mix the salt with the yoghurt and then stir in the flour.
- Let the mixture sit for thirty minutes.
- Add milk and corn, stirring constantly.
- Then, add the chicken stock.
- Cook on a low heat, stirring constantly, until the sauce is very thick.
- Fry onion on a low heat heat until browned.
- Sprinkle onion over the Kesh.
- Serve hot or cold.
- 1 pound fresh molokhia leaves (or frozen and thawed)
- 6 cups chicken stock
- 1 bay leaf
- 1 small onion, finely chopped
- black pepper, to taste
- several garlic cloves, crushed
- 1 tsp ground coriander
- 1 tsp salt
- juice of one lemon
- cardamom or cinnamon, to taste
- 2 tbsp cooking oil
- 5 pound chicken
- cooked rice
- Bring the chicken stock to a near boil.
- Chop the molokhia leaves as finely as possible (frozen molokhia is usually cleaned and chopped).
- Add the molokhia, stirring well.
- Stir in the bay leaf, onion and black pepper.
- Reduce heat and leave to simmer for about twenty minutes.
- Meanwhile, grind the garlic, ground coriander and the salt together into a paste and fry in oil until browned (the mixture is known as Ta'liya).
- Add the Ta'liya to the simmering molokhia with any remaining ingredients and stir well.
- Continue simmering for a few minutes and stir occasionally.
- Serve immediately with boiled rice and boiled chicken.
Creamy Risotto with onions (Keshk)
- 1 cup of yoghurt
- ½ cup of flour
- 1 cup of milk
- 2 tsp of cornflour
- 6 cups of chicken stock
- pinch of salt
- 1 onion, peeled
- 1 tsp of butter
- Mix the salt with the yoghurt and then stir in the flour.
- Let the mixture sit for thirty minutes.
- Add milk and corn, stirring constantly.
- Then, add the chicken stock.
- Cook on a low heat, stirring constantly, until the sauce is very thick.
- Fry onion on a low heat heat until browned.
- Sprinkle onion over the Kesh.
- Serve hot or cold.
Beans Egyptian Dry Beans (Foul)
- 1 tbsp olive oil
- salt & pepper, to taste
- 1/2 tsp ground coriander
- 1/2 tsp cumin
- 1 tbsp lemon juice
- 2 cloves garlic, crushed
- 4 hard-boiled eggs, shelled
- coriander leaves
- Soak fava beans in cold water overnight.
- Drain fava beans the following day.
- Cook in water on a medium heat for 45 minutes.
- Strain beans then mix with olive oil, salt, pepper, ground coriander, cumin, lemon juice and garlic.
- Serve beans in ramekins and put hard-boiled egg in middle of each one.
- Decorate with coriander leaves.
Vegetables Stuffed cabbage with rice (Mahshy)
- 1 cabbage
- 2 tbsp butter or oil
- 2 onions, chopped
- 1kg tomatoes, chopped
- chopped parsley
- 4 cups short-grain rice
- 1 tsp salt
- 1 tsp pepper
- 1 cup chicken or beef broth
- Preheat oven (200°C/400°F).
- Trim outer leaves from cabbage.
- Wash and pat dry.
- Prick leaves with fork.
- Sprinkle with salt.
- Fry the onion in butter or oil.
- Sauté the onion with the diced tomatoes and parsley.
- Stir in the short-grain rice.
- Stuff the cabbage leaves with the mixed rice.
- Place in a deep oven dish or casserole.
- Pour the broth over the stuffed leaves.
- Cover with foil and bake in preheated oven until rice is done.
- 1 cabbage
- 2 tbsp butter or oil
- 2 onions, chopped
- 1kg tomatoes, chopped
- chopped parsley
- 4 cups short-grain rice
- 1 tsp salt
- 1 tsp pepper
- 1 cup chicken or beef broth
- Preheat oven (200°C/400°F).
- Trim outer leaves from cabbage.
- Wash and pat dry.
- Prick leaves with fork.
- Sprinkle with salt.
- Fry the onion in butter or oil.
- Sauté the onion with the diced tomatoes and parsley.
- Stir in the short-grain rice.
- Stuff the cabbage leaves with the mixed rice.
- Place in a deep oven dish or casserole.
- Pour the broth over the stuffed leaves.
- Cover with foil and bake in preheated oven until rice is done.
Bread : Pitta Bread stuffed with figs and dates
- A Pre-fasting savory ( Eish Bel Balah wel teen)
- 1 cup seedless dates, chopped
- 1 cup chopped dried figs
- 1/4 cup unsalted butter, softened
- 1.1/2 tsps baking soda
- 1 cup boiling water
- 1/2 cup white sugar
- 1/2 cup chopped walnuts
- 2 eggs
- 3/4 cup all-purpose flour
- 3/4 cup whole wheat flour
- 1/2 tsp baking powder
- 1/2 teaspoon salt
- Preheat oven (200°C/400°F).
- Mix the dates, figs and butter together with the baking soda.
- Add to boiling water and stir constantly for 15 minutes.
- Beat the eggs and sugar together.
- Add the salt and baking powder.
- Beat in the all-purpose flour and whole wheat flour.
- Stir in walnuts with date and figue mixture.
- Pour mixture into greased baking tin.
- Bake in preheated oven for 1 hour.
- Serve warm.
- A Pre-fasting savory ( Eish Bel Balah wel teen)
- 1 cup seedless dates, chopped
- 1 cup chopped dried figs
- 1/4 cup unsalted butter, softened
- 1.1/2 tsps baking soda
- 1 cup boiling water
- 1/2 cup white sugar
- 1/2 cup chopped walnuts
- 2 eggs
- 3/4 cup all-purpose flour
- 3/4 cup whole wheat flour
- 1/2 tsp baking powder
- 1/2 teaspoon salt
- Preheat oven (200°C/400°F).
- Mix the dates, figs and butter together with the baking soda.
- Add to boiling water and stir constantly for 15 minutes.
- Beat the eggs and sugar together.
- Add the salt and baking powder.
- Beat in the all-purpose flour and whole wheat flour.
- Stir in walnuts with date and figue mixture.
- Pour mixture into greased baking tin.
- Bake in preheated oven for 1 hour.
- Serve warm.
Dessert : Baklava (Baklawa)
- 2 cups walnuts, finely chopped
- 2 cups melted butter
- 1 cup sugar
- 1 cup melted butter, to brush on dough
- 2 tsp cinnamon
- 3 tbsp orange blossom water (mazahar)
- 1 packet phyllo dough (1lb)
- 2 cups sugar
- 1 cup water
- 2 tbsp lemon juice
- Preheat oven (200°C/400°F).
- Beat the sugar and butter together.
- Add walnuts, cinnamon and 1 tbsp orange blossom water.
- Grease a baking tin.
- Brush each layer of phyllo dough with the melted butter.
- Put several layers of phyllo dough in the baking tin. (use about half of the packet)
- Pour all of the walnut mixture over the layers of phyllo dough.
- Continue adding the rest of the phyllo dough in layers.
- Don't forget to brush each one with butter.
- Pour any remaining butter over the last layer of phyllo dough.
- Cut the phyllo dough into little squares.
- Bake in a preheated oven for 5 minutes.
- After 5 minutes, lower heat and cook for another 30 to 45 minutes.
- While the Baklwa is baking, prepare the syrup.
- Heat the water with the sugar and stir until sugar dissolves.
- Stir in lemon juice and bring to the boil.
- Remove from heat and stir in the rest of the orange blossom water.
- Leave to cool.
- 2 cups walnuts, finely chopped
- 2 cups melted butter
- 1 cup sugar
- 1 cup melted butter, to brush on dough
- 2 tsp cinnamon
- 3 tbsp orange blossom water (mazahar)
- 1 packet phyllo dough (1lb)
- 2 cups sugar
- 1 cup water
- 2 tbsp lemon juice
- Preheat oven (200°C/400°F).
- Beat the sugar and butter together.
- Add walnuts, cinnamon and 1 tbsp orange blossom water.
- Grease a baking tin.
- Brush each layer of phyllo dough with the melted butter.
- Put several layers of phyllo dough in the baking tin. (use about half of the packet)
- Pour all of the walnut mixture over the layers of phyllo dough.
- Continue adding the rest of the phyllo dough in layers.
- Don't forget to brush each one with butter.
- Pour any remaining butter over the last layer of phyllo dough.
- Cut the phyllo dough into little squares.
- Bake in a preheated oven for 5 minutes.
- After 5 minutes, lower heat and cook for another 30 to 45 minutes.
- While the Baklwa is baking, prepare the syrup.
- Heat the water with the sugar and stir until sugar dissolves.
- Stir in lemon juice and bring to the boil.
- Remove from heat and stir in the rest of the orange blossom water.
- Leave to cool.
Stuffed Pigeons (Hamam Mahshy)
- pigeon giblets, chopped
- onion, chopped
- butter
- salt
- pepper
- cornmeal
- mint
- cooked rice
- Preheat oven (200°C/400°F).
- Heat the butter and add the onion, salt, pepper and giblets.
- Then, toss the giblets in cornmeal and mint until golden brown.
- Clean the pigeons and rub them inside and out with salt and pepper.
- Stuff each pigeon with the giblets and the previously cooked rice.
- Place the pigeons in a casserole.
- Add enough hot water to cover the bottom of the casserole.
- Pour the remaining butter over the pigeons.
- Roast in preheated oven for 50 minutes.
- Add additional water when needed.
- Put some of the pigeon stock in a saucepan with the remaining cornmeal.
- Cover and simmer for about 30 minutes.
- Serve with the roast pigeons.
Grilled minced chicken rolls (Koftet Ferakh)
Left over chicken or a whole boiled chicken
- Knead the chicken well to make a smooth mixture.
- Form the chicken mixture into small balls.
- Flatten into circles.
- Put the meat in the fridge for 15 minutes.
- Fry or roast.
Tuesday, October 24, 2006
How to Catch Crabs By Hand
How to Catch Crabs By Hand
Crabbing with a Net
 Blue crabs will get quite large in the Chesapeake, especially in the fall after they have fed all summer long on bay nutrients. Photo Credit: Charlie Petrocci |
Drop Lining or Chicken Neckin'
This is catching crabs by hand on a sing line (or string) with bait tied to the end of it - usually chicken necks.
- What you will need:
- A line (ball of string) - string is easy on the hands to control and pull in - and the crabs really don't care what you use.
- A small stick - (maybe 8-12 inches long) to tie your line to
- Bait - raw chicken necks or raw fish heads. Most local grocery stores carry chicken parts you can use for crabbing. Some crabbers swear by bull lips. Others use salted eel. Bait shops and dockside fish markets will also sell you leftover fish heads. Crabs will pretty much eat any uncooked meat but these are what most people use.
- A small net - to help wrangle those ornery critters
- A cooler, a tall bucket, or a bushel basket with a lid - for your catch - Some folks keep their crabs in a live well in the water, which helps them to live longer.
- Gloves - to wear when handling the crabs
- A buddy - because two sets of hands are better than one - and it is always more fun and safer on the water with a friend along.
- A ruler - or some other way to measure the size of your catch.
- What to do:
- When you get to your crabbing spot, tie one end of a 5-6 foot line on to your stick
- Tie a piece of your bait securely at the other end of your line
- Drop your bait into the water holding securely onto your stick.
- Wait for the tug of the crab eating your bait.
- When you feel a nibble, slowly raise the line to the surface. Go slowly and try not to scare the crab. Gently reel in your line wrapping it around your stick until the crab is hanging in the air.
- Either drop the crab into your bucket or use your net to grab your prey and then drop it in the bucket from the net.
- Crabs should not be without water or air for too long. Crabs can live in coolers with ice because the ice slows down their system. Never cook and eat a dead crab. Eat your crabs the same day that you catch them.
Crab Traps
Collapsible crab traps are used in a similar way to a drop line. They can be purchased at most bait shops or hardware stores on the Eastern Shore. Don't forget, you'll still need something to keep your catch in.
- Fasten your bait to the bottom of the trap.
- Fasten a sturdy line to the trap.
- Lower the trap from a dock or boat.
- When a crab goes in to feed, pull the string and trap the crab. Then hoist it ashore and drop into your bucket or basket.
Tuesday, September 19, 2006
Haldikolyacha Patolis (Turmeric Leaves Patolis)
Turmeric Leaf Patholis are different from Jackfruit leaf patholis.
Mom made some when I was home last week.
Couldn't resist putting the picture up.
For the recipe : Visit http://www.mangaloreworld.com/content/view/491/202/
Saturday, September 16, 2006
Turkish Delight
One of my groups had a discussion about Turkish Delights & Vivek gave this link.
Looks kinda like a marshmallow
U can get the recipe at http://www.bbc.co.uk/kent/food/kids/turkish_delight.shtml
Looks kinda like a marshmallow
U can get the recipe at http://www.bbc.co.uk/kent/food/kids/turkish_delight.shtml
Wednesday, July 26, 2006
Recipe : Pandi Curry - Coorgi Pork Curry
Not too sure how authentic it is. But I got it from an old recipe book of my grandma's :
I have lots of pork recipes. I'm Mangi & we do love pork.
I approximate a lot in my recipes, I don't measure before cooking. so i hope i can give reasonably clear details.
for 1 kg pork
Cut pork into medium size pieces. Wash & smear with 1 tsp turmeric powder, 1 tsp chilli powder & salt to taste in a large pot.
grind coarsely together
4 large red onions
8-10 cloves garlic
5-6 green chillies
1/2" ginger
Roast and powder finely (or use powdered versions)
1 tbsp corriander seeds
1/2 tsp mustard seeds
2 tsp cumin seeds
2 tsps black peppercorns
Add the ground masala & a cup of hot water to the pork & let it cook well. (Pork needs to be cooked thoroughly to kill any traces of parasites)
When almost cooked, add the masala powders (I also like to add 2-3 bay leaves - large leaves different from curry leaves - at this stage for an aroma, but this is more a Mangi thing than a Coorgi thing)
When well cooked, add 3 tbsps vinegar or Kochampulli according to your choice of sourness. There should be a thick gravy for the curry.
(Note : I add the kochumpulli when grinding the masala, but it turns the curry a darkish black when ground)
(Hint : Soak Kochumpulli for 5 minutes in a little hot water to start the release of flavors which sometimes gets stalled in a thick gravy)
I have lots of pork recipes. I'm Mangi & we do love pork.
I approximate a lot in my recipes, I don't measure before cooking. so i hope i can give reasonably clear details.
for 1 kg pork
Cut pork into medium size pieces. Wash & smear with 1 tsp turmeric powder, 1 tsp chilli powder & salt to taste in a large pot.
grind coarsely together
4 large red onions
8-10 cloves garlic
5-6 green chillies
1/2" ginger
Roast and powder finely (or use powdered versions)
1 tbsp corriander seeds
1/2 tsp mustard seeds
2 tsp cumin seeds
2 tsps black peppercorns
Add the ground masala & a cup of hot water to the pork & let it cook well. (Pork needs to be cooked thoroughly to kill any traces of parasites)
When almost cooked, add the masala powders (I also like to add 2-3 bay leaves - large leaves different from curry leaves - at this stage for an aroma, but this is more a Mangi thing than a Coorgi thing)
When well cooked, add 3 tbsps vinegar or Kochampulli according to your choice of sourness. There should be a thick gravy for the curry.
(Note : I add the kochumpulli when grinding the masala, but it turns the curry a darkish black when ground)
(Hint : Soak Kochumpulli for 5 minutes in a little hot water to start the release of flavors which sometimes gets stalled in a thick gravy)
Recipe: Sannas - (Rice Cakes)
Soak separately (at least 4 hours) :
1/2 kg boiled rice
250 gms raw rice
Grind both varieties of rice together with milk of 1 coconut (1 packet of Dabur Homemade coconut milk also works)
Add salt to taste & a little dry yeast. Put in a large vessel with space to ferment. Cover with a cloth & allow it to fement.
Steam in greased moulds around 15 minutes in a steamer. Much less in the microwave. Idli moulds will do fine if u dont have sanna moulds. The shape will be different though
This is what they should ideally look like
They go great with any coconut based curry or pork.
That's Nana's Pork Indad in the picture.
1/2 kg boiled rice
250 gms raw rice
Grind both varieties of rice together with milk of 1 coconut (1 packet of Dabur Homemade coconut milk also works)
Add salt to taste & a little dry yeast. Put in a large vessel with space to ferment. Cover with a cloth & allow it to fement.
Steam in greased moulds around 15 minutes in a steamer. Much less in the microwave. Idli moulds will do fine if u dont have sanna moulds. The shape will be different though
This is what they should ideally look like
They go great with any coconut based curry or pork.
That's Nana's Pork Indad in the picture.
Monday, June 26, 2006
Are you a gourmet snob?
Brilliant Article in The Guardian by Self-confessed gastronome Tim Hayward on 10 tell-tale signs that you love food a little too much.
Friday June 23, 2006
The Guardian
The chef's table
Located inside the kitchen, this concept has been introduced in several restaurants (though Gordon Ramsay's is still considered the ultimate) and throws foodies right in among the fire and knives. Most foodies have never worked in a professional kitchen, so they are oblivious to the deep, psychotic hatred that cooks hold for anyone or anything that distracts them during service. Still, dining sumptuously with a table of yapping sybarites while surrounded by overheated manual workers does display a certain, pre-revolutionary elan. The fact that they hate you and are armed with knives and boiling fat merely adds a seasoning of danger.
Ironic food
Throughout history chefs have amused diners with little culinary jokes: roast suckling pigs with peacock wings, pies full of blackbirds; not, admittedly laugh-out-loud hysterical but enough to enliven a dull banquet. The modern equivalent - "ironic" food - has a far more vital purpose than mere entertainment. Foodies chortle wryly at a foie gras hamburger in a brioche bun for the same reason that people laugh loudly at all the references in Shakespeare in Love - to make sure you're aware exactly how clever they are.
Ordering 'off-menu'
Having managed, by luck or influence, to get a booking at a top restaurant, most people would be happy to choose from the menu. A really high-grade foodie regards the menu as a list of raw materials and, in a jaw-dropping display of arrogance, will discuss with the waiter a completely new combination of the available ingredients. Ordering "off-menu" is the foodie equivalent of skiing off-piste - risky, performed by those with more confidence than ability, but extraordinarily impressive if you can carry it off.
Kitchen slang
Foodies love the arcane patois of the professional kitchen and, whenever possible, use it in general conversation. "Frying off", sounds gratifyingly professional, which, of course, it is, in the right circumstances. "I'll just pour two pints of industrial-grade grease into this metre-square brat pan, fry off 800 battery chicken breasts, slap them under the heat lamps and hope no one dies on my shift." That's professional. "I'll fry off this Marks & Spencer salmon fishcake," on the other hand, is just absurd.
Foodie/chef relationship
Foodies believe that no one appreciates great food like they do, except maybe the person who cooked it. They believe they have a bond with the chef and that making a little fuss in the restaurant, showing the staff that they know what they're about, will result in better service, better food and ultimately a visit by the man in white to meet the erudite fellow gastronaut on table eight. No one has been brave enough to ask chefs how they feel about this "bond" but it's a fair bet that anyone who calls you out in the middle of service to have their ego massaged with a discussion on the provenance of your mushrooms is not going to stay your best mate for long.
Fats
A collection of oils arouses little comment these days, (at least three single-estate olive oils and a bottle of Moroccan Argan are currently de rigueur) but extreme foodies also collect solid fats. Pork, duck, beef dripping, rendered pancetta trimmings, are all saved in little jars at the back of the fridge. Sometimes at the end of the meal the host may take a favoured friend over to view this little collection, proudly pointing out the goose fat left over from Christmas. Few civilians, with the exception of mass murderers, are entirely comfortable with this disturbingly forensic display.
Molecular gastronomy
A term coined in 1969 by a French physicist called Hervé This, who was attempting to popularise science through cooking. Foodies have embraced this as the nearest thing to a movement currently available. "Molecular gastronomy" is to blame for foams, food eaten blindfold, liquid nitrogen in the kitchen and desserts served in syringes. Only a real foodie can say "Molecular gastronomy" with an entirely straight face and without making little quotation marks with his fingers.
Outrageous equipment
Now that merely "professional" equipment is available to any oaf with a credit card, "specialist" or "bespoke" kit is a foodie essential. Take knives as an example. Somewhere in a back street in Tokyo there's a brilliant, wizened sashimi chef who was first allowed to slice fish after 20 years of washing dishes for one of the great masters. This sensei has been cutting sashimi for longer than you've been alive. He doesn't need a £900 hand-forged sashimi knife, individually weighted to fit his hand - though, apparently, a foodie who throws the occasional dinner party for friends in Muswell Hill does.
Travel
The problem with the UK's culinary renaissance is that it's now too easy to get great food. What was cutting-edge ethnic cuisine five years ago is now available to anyone who can pierce the film and nuke it. For a foodie to maintain distance from the merely discerning, travel and research have become essential. We're not talking about touring France for the 3-star restaurants here - that's for retired solicitors - we're talking Vietnam for the frogs.
Collecting 'restos'
American foodies are in a different league and have taken to gastronomy with a frightening enthusiasm. They began the trend for "collecting" Michelin-starred restaurants, a sort of culinary Munro-bagging which reduces the sublime to the level of "extreme" sport. They're also responsible for the most egregious foodie pretension, just beginning to creep into British usage, using the term "resto" as shorthand for restaurant. Pray God we can pull together as a nation and stop this in its tracks.
· Tim Hayward is UK editor of the website eGullet.org
Friday June 23, 2006
The Guardian
The chef's table
Located inside the kitchen, this concept has been introduced in several restaurants (though Gordon Ramsay's is still considered the ultimate) and throws foodies right in among the fire and knives. Most foodies have never worked in a professional kitchen, so they are oblivious to the deep, psychotic hatred that cooks hold for anyone or anything that distracts them during service. Still, dining sumptuously with a table of yapping sybarites while surrounded by overheated manual workers does display a certain, pre-revolutionary elan. The fact that they hate you and are armed with knives and boiling fat merely adds a seasoning of danger.
Ironic food
Throughout history chefs have amused diners with little culinary jokes: roast suckling pigs with peacock wings, pies full of blackbirds; not, admittedly laugh-out-loud hysterical but enough to enliven a dull banquet. The modern equivalent - "ironic" food - has a far more vital purpose than mere entertainment. Foodies chortle wryly at a foie gras hamburger in a brioche bun for the same reason that people laugh loudly at all the references in Shakespeare in Love - to make sure you're aware exactly how clever they are.
Ordering 'off-menu'
Having managed, by luck or influence, to get a booking at a top restaurant, most people would be happy to choose from the menu. A really high-grade foodie regards the menu as a list of raw materials and, in a jaw-dropping display of arrogance, will discuss with the waiter a completely new combination of the available ingredients. Ordering "off-menu" is the foodie equivalent of skiing off-piste - risky, performed by those with more confidence than ability, but extraordinarily impressive if you can carry it off.
Kitchen slang
Foodies love the arcane patois of the professional kitchen and, whenever possible, use it in general conversation. "Frying off", sounds gratifyingly professional, which, of course, it is, in the right circumstances. "I'll just pour two pints of industrial-grade grease into this metre-square brat pan, fry off 800 battery chicken breasts, slap them under the heat lamps and hope no one dies on my shift." That's professional. "I'll fry off this Marks & Spencer salmon fishcake," on the other hand, is just absurd.
Foodie/chef relationship
Foodies believe that no one appreciates great food like they do, except maybe the person who cooked it. They believe they have a bond with the chef and that making a little fuss in the restaurant, showing the staff that they know what they're about, will result in better service, better food and ultimately a visit by the man in white to meet the erudite fellow gastronaut on table eight. No one has been brave enough to ask chefs how they feel about this "bond" but it's a fair bet that anyone who calls you out in the middle of service to have their ego massaged with a discussion on the provenance of your mushrooms is not going to stay your best mate for long.
Fats
A collection of oils arouses little comment these days, (at least three single-estate olive oils and a bottle of Moroccan Argan are currently de rigueur) but extreme foodies also collect solid fats. Pork, duck, beef dripping, rendered pancetta trimmings, are all saved in little jars at the back of the fridge. Sometimes at the end of the meal the host may take a favoured friend over to view this little collection, proudly pointing out the goose fat left over from Christmas. Few civilians, with the exception of mass murderers, are entirely comfortable with this disturbingly forensic display.
Molecular gastronomy
A term coined in 1969 by a French physicist called Hervé This, who was attempting to popularise science through cooking. Foodies have embraced this as the nearest thing to a movement currently available. "Molecular gastronomy" is to blame for foams, food eaten blindfold, liquid nitrogen in the kitchen and desserts served in syringes. Only a real foodie can say "Molecular gastronomy" with an entirely straight face and without making little quotation marks with his fingers.
Outrageous equipment
Now that merely "professional" equipment is available to any oaf with a credit card, "specialist" or "bespoke" kit is a foodie essential. Take knives as an example. Somewhere in a back street in Tokyo there's a brilliant, wizened sashimi chef who was first allowed to slice fish after 20 years of washing dishes for one of the great masters. This sensei has been cutting sashimi for longer than you've been alive. He doesn't need a £900 hand-forged sashimi knife, individually weighted to fit his hand - though, apparently, a foodie who throws the occasional dinner party for friends in Muswell Hill does.
Travel
The problem with the UK's culinary renaissance is that it's now too easy to get great food. What was cutting-edge ethnic cuisine five years ago is now available to anyone who can pierce the film and nuke it. For a foodie to maintain distance from the merely discerning, travel and research have become essential. We're not talking about touring France for the 3-star restaurants here - that's for retired solicitors - we're talking Vietnam for the frogs.
Collecting 'restos'
American foodies are in a different league and have taken to gastronomy with a frightening enthusiasm. They began the trend for "collecting" Michelin-starred restaurants, a sort of culinary Munro-bagging which reduces the sublime to the level of "extreme" sport. They're also responsible for the most egregious foodie pretension, just beginning to creep into British usage, using the term "resto" as shorthand for restaurant. Pray God we can pull together as a nation and stop this in its tracks.
· Tim Hayward is UK editor of the website eGullet.org
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